This page covers a lot of information. Odds are you have asked some of these questions or the breeder has gone over some of this, but it should be read over in its entirety before committing to purchase your puppy.
- Before picking up your puppy...
- Training 101
- Grooming 101
- Planning Ahead
Before picking up your puppy...
The excitement of a puppy can leave you a bit forgetful. Here are some things to remember:
-Make an appointment with your vet to occur within 48 hours of getting the puppy. This entitles you to a refund/exchange under Florida law. Puppy comes with a health certificate and first shots(more if puppy is older).
-Have a stainless steel food and water bowl. Stainless steel is easy to clean and holds less bacteria, which might in turn cause bacteria filled cysts or pimples on puppy's chin. Plastic bowls should not be used. As an adult, a cocker will only eat 1 to 2 cups of food per day, so a small size food bowl is fine. Get the one with the rubber bottom to avoid it sliding around the floor. I recommend a raised bowl to help keep the ears out of the water and food. (On messy eaters with "leftovers", use a snood or remember to comb out the ear feathers daily.)
-Have a leash and collar. Puppy will likely chew it(if puppy routinely likes to hold/tug the leash on a walk, bring along a favorite toy/stick for puppy to hold instead), so consider a short leash of 4-5 feet and don't let it slack, but also don't hold it tight. A leash should be relaxed. Puppy should always be on a leash or training leash, not more than 15 feet long and never use a retractable leash with a young untrained dog. Off-leash training within a contained area starts after the puppy has mastered sit and come on the first time being asked. If it doesn't want to listen or is distracted ("SQUIRREL!"), it can ignore you and run away, which creates bad habits that were avoidable with a leash. Puppy will fit in an adjustable size small collar at 8 weeks old, which can be adjusted larger and be usable until about 6 months old. Extra small will be outgrown too fast. Puppy should always walk behind or next to the walker and owner. The moment you let puppy in front of you, you have undermined your position of authority. If puppy moves ahead, turn around and walk the other direction. Puppy will follow. Repeat until the puppy understands you are the provider of instructions(including what direction to walk) and puppy should follow and be watching you at all times for changes in direction. Make walks a training game by suddenly and randomly making turns.
-Have a crate. Ask for the expected adult size of the puppy for best fit. Crates for dogs weighing up to 35 pounds should be good in most cases (but preferably use the crate size for the 30-70 lb range that comes with a divider panel). The crate is just for the dog. Kids should be taught that when the dog goes in the crate, it is to be left alone. While in the crate, the dog should not to be talked to, touched, or looked at. The crate is a safe positive place, never to be used as a time out spot or as punishment. With the separation anxiety cockers get, instilling the crate as a good thing is an important part of training. The crate is an excellent place to place the food dish; as food is good, being in the crate comes to mean good things. (Eventually, you may find your cocker telling you it is hungry by walking into the crate and sitting there waiting for food.) If you can't watch the puppy with your full attention, the puppy should be in the crate or otherwise confined to a puppy proof area. You will have many potty accidents and inappropriate chewing if you do not watch a puppy closely enough to recognize it is about to go potty or needs to be redirected to a toy.
-Have a variety of toys. Expect them all to get chewed to bits. I recommend a small (mouth sized) stuffed toy, a ball, a medium sized stuffed toy with a squeaker or other noisemaker, a large stuffed toy for the crate to sleep with, a puppy chew toy(such as a real bone or calf-hoof (rubber/plastic dog chew toys are hit and miss, but a squeaker inside makes them far more fun), and a rope tug. Having a variety will help you discover what your dog likes to play with. I will have an idea of what a puppy enjoys before it leaves me, more likely than not the answer is "anything". Odds are puppy has already discovered the joy of chewing on a stick found in the yard, pork or steak bone, and, incidentally, a roll of toilet paper. For the puppy, chewing is often more about exploring the world, texture, having fun, and relief from teeth coming in. Don't leave the toys out all at once. One toy out is fine. The rest should only be out when you choose. This makes them desired and of higher value to want to play with. Make a huge fuss over a toy, let puppy have a sniff and a taste, then take it away. The toy becomes a reward.
-Go easy on the treats. Most treats have little nutrition for a growing puppy and just make an adult overweight. The puppy's food can be used as a treat. One food kibble = one treat. You'll be surprised how fast 100 pieces of kibble goes. If you feel you want something special, get a bag of "all life stages" dog food under a different brand or flavor and use that as a treat. Treats throughout the day will mean poops throughout the day. That's a lot more work for you.
I also highly recommend baking plain chicken breast, dicing it into 1/2 inch or smaller cubes or shredding it into "just a taste" size morsels. Fresh carrots and green beans make easy, healthy, and tasty treats. As an adult, you should easily be able to feel the ribs through the skin, but not see every bone. If there's a layer of fat that you have to feel through, the dog is overweight. In this era of over-feeding dogs, most people have overweight dogs and people do not know what a proper weight dog looks like. Being overweight means more work for the organs and joints, leading to more health issues. Unlike humans, the dog can't control its eating, but the owner can. (Plus, it means buying less food and fewer poops to pick up.) After the puppy is 2 years old(considered an adult), feel free to add in regular healthy treats, but then reduce the amount of dog food.
-Dry dog food only! Puppy has a full set of teeth and has been eating dry dog food. There is no need to get wet food. If you feel like feeding wet food, now is the time to get the desire out of your system. As soon as the adult teeth start to come in, end all wet food feeding. This includes anything that is not hard kibble. If you don't stop, by age 9 your dog's teeth will be well rotted and you'll have expensive dental visits to remove most of your dog's teeth. You've been warned! Even with dry food, start brushing puppy's teeth. If you get puppy used to it now, it'll be easier for you to brush them as an adult. Without brushing, a decent plaque buildup will be visible by age 1.5. I recommend annual teeth cleaning starting at age 2 to 3, depending on how good you are at brushing your dog's teeth(again, it'll be easier if you start young). Sedation cleaning is the only proper way to clean a dog's teeth; non-sedation methods are not a substitute for annual cleaning.
Note: If you choose to feed a raw/fresh food diet, including the bone will help clean teeth. Talk to your vet and work out a feeding plan that meets daily dietary requirements. Do not attempt to do this on your own or by following a guide you found online.
-Puppy needs to be shown where to go potty all the time. I suggest an 8 week old puppy is shown every 15 minutes if you want to get this training done very early and very fast. Depending on how dedicated you are to learning the signals a puppy gives that it is about to go, if you wait 1 hour between outings, you will have a much harder time, especially with accidents leaving residual odors indoors which encourage going in that area again. If puppy woke up, puppy has to go. If puppy drank, puppy has to go now AND in an hour from now. If puppy ate, puppy has to go potty now AND in an hour or two. If puppy just played, puppy has to go. Potty training should go slow and steady. Puppies were introduced to pads but not all of the puppies understand as fast as others. I do not recommend potty pads indoors. Place the pad just outside the door instead, such as under the roof line or on the porch. Gradually move it closer to the potty location. For fastest results, go out with the puppy, don't stay at the door, which encourages a puppy to come back to you rather than stay out and do its "business". Pads left in the crate will just be shredded to bits. Pad holders make it even more fun with something to tug back. Washable pads are great but are not good to leave in the crate. If you have to leave for more than 2 hours, do leave a disposable pad in the crate to absorb any accidents. Costco has excellently priced pads. I'm happy to pick up some if you mention wanting some. I typically provide a couple pads to hold the new owner over for the car ride home or inevitable puppy shopping spree.
-Socialize the puppy. Socialize does not mean what most think. Socialize means take the puppy everywhere, introduce it to everyone and everything, including new places, surfaces to walk on, sounds, strange objects, things that move, people of all ages and appearances, and animals. This should not stop until the puppy is 3 years old. By the time puppy left the breeder, it had already met 100 people, but it still needs more. It's very difficult to balance safety and needing to expose the puppy while young. A puppy gains confidence and learns appropriate behavior while on its own feet, not while being held. While a cocker stays small much longer, it really should stay on the ground and not be picked up by the owners while being exposed or meeting people. A dog held begins to guard and protect the holder, which leads to behavioral issues
Head to Lowes and other dog friendly stores. Let everyone pet and molest the puppy if they have sanitized hands and have not been petting other dogs. Keep puppy off on the floor until 16 weeks old (or fully vaccinated) or place it on a towel. Enroll in a puppy class. Petsmart has a puppy pack which includes a free class. Your local kennel club or training club also offers a puppy class with likely a much smaller class size. There are many dog training and dog day care businesses and they are a great alternative if you don't have the time to train or socialize
-Start good habits now. Decide on the house rules. Stick to them. If you let things go now as a puppy, it'll be harder to undo as an adult.
-Keep it positive. Always give praise or attention when puppy does well. Negative attention is still attention in the eyes of puppy, so screaming in anger and spanking only serves to reinforce a behavior. Say a firm "No", correct the behavior by redirecting focus to a desired behavior. Puppy can't bark if it is holding a toy in the mouth. Puppy can't chew on the table legs if has a toy in the mouth.
(These are my opinions. Taking your puppy in public is done at your own risk and should be discussed with your veterinarian.)
-Make an appointment with your vet to occur within 48 hours of getting the puppy. This entitles you to a refund/exchange under Florida law. Puppy comes with a health certificate and first shots(more if puppy is older).
-Have a stainless steel food and water bowl. Stainless steel is easy to clean and holds less bacteria, which might in turn cause bacteria filled cysts or pimples on puppy's chin. Plastic bowls should not be used. As an adult, a cocker will only eat 1 to 2 cups of food per day, so a small size food bowl is fine. Get the one with the rubber bottom to avoid it sliding around the floor. I recommend a raised bowl to help keep the ears out of the water and food. (On messy eaters with "leftovers", use a snood or remember to comb out the ear feathers daily.)
-Have a leash and collar. Puppy will likely chew it(if puppy routinely likes to hold/tug the leash on a walk, bring along a favorite toy/stick for puppy to hold instead), so consider a short leash of 4-5 feet and don't let it slack, but also don't hold it tight. A leash should be relaxed. Puppy should always be on a leash or training leash, not more than 15 feet long and never use a retractable leash with a young untrained dog. Off-leash training within a contained area starts after the puppy has mastered sit and come on the first time being asked. If it doesn't want to listen or is distracted ("SQUIRREL!"), it can ignore you and run away, which creates bad habits that were avoidable with a leash. Puppy will fit in an adjustable size small collar at 8 weeks old, which can be adjusted larger and be usable until about 6 months old. Extra small will be outgrown too fast. Puppy should always walk behind or next to the walker and owner. The moment you let puppy in front of you, you have undermined your position of authority. If puppy moves ahead, turn around and walk the other direction. Puppy will follow. Repeat until the puppy understands you are the provider of instructions(including what direction to walk) and puppy should follow and be watching you at all times for changes in direction. Make walks a training game by suddenly and randomly making turns.
-Have a crate. Ask for the expected adult size of the puppy for best fit. Crates for dogs weighing up to 35 pounds should be good in most cases (but preferably use the crate size for the 30-70 lb range that comes with a divider panel). The crate is just for the dog. Kids should be taught that when the dog goes in the crate, it is to be left alone. While in the crate, the dog should not to be talked to, touched, or looked at. The crate is a safe positive place, never to be used as a time out spot or as punishment. With the separation anxiety cockers get, instilling the crate as a good thing is an important part of training. The crate is an excellent place to place the food dish; as food is good, being in the crate comes to mean good things. (Eventually, you may find your cocker telling you it is hungry by walking into the crate and sitting there waiting for food.) If you can't watch the puppy with your full attention, the puppy should be in the crate or otherwise confined to a puppy proof area. You will have many potty accidents and inappropriate chewing if you do not watch a puppy closely enough to recognize it is about to go potty or needs to be redirected to a toy.
-Have a variety of toys. Expect them all to get chewed to bits. I recommend a small (mouth sized) stuffed toy, a ball, a medium sized stuffed toy with a squeaker or other noisemaker, a large stuffed toy for the crate to sleep with, a puppy chew toy(such as a real bone or calf-hoof (rubber/plastic dog chew toys are hit and miss, but a squeaker inside makes them far more fun), and a rope tug. Having a variety will help you discover what your dog likes to play with. I will have an idea of what a puppy enjoys before it leaves me, more likely than not the answer is "anything". Odds are puppy has already discovered the joy of chewing on a stick found in the yard, pork or steak bone, and, incidentally, a roll of toilet paper. For the puppy, chewing is often more about exploring the world, texture, having fun, and relief from teeth coming in. Don't leave the toys out all at once. One toy out is fine. The rest should only be out when you choose. This makes them desired and of higher value to want to play with. Make a huge fuss over a toy, let puppy have a sniff and a taste, then take it away. The toy becomes a reward.
-Go easy on the treats. Most treats have little nutrition for a growing puppy and just make an adult overweight. The puppy's food can be used as a treat. One food kibble = one treat. You'll be surprised how fast 100 pieces of kibble goes. If you feel you want something special, get a bag of "all life stages" dog food under a different brand or flavor and use that as a treat. Treats throughout the day will mean poops throughout the day. That's a lot more work for you.
I also highly recommend baking plain chicken breast, dicing it into 1/2 inch or smaller cubes or shredding it into "just a taste" size morsels. Fresh carrots and green beans make easy, healthy, and tasty treats. As an adult, you should easily be able to feel the ribs through the skin, but not see every bone. If there's a layer of fat that you have to feel through, the dog is overweight. In this era of over-feeding dogs, most people have overweight dogs and people do not know what a proper weight dog looks like. Being overweight means more work for the organs and joints, leading to more health issues. Unlike humans, the dog can't control its eating, but the owner can. (Plus, it means buying less food and fewer poops to pick up.) After the puppy is 2 years old(considered an adult), feel free to add in regular healthy treats, but then reduce the amount of dog food.
-Dry dog food only! Puppy has a full set of teeth and has been eating dry dog food. There is no need to get wet food. If you feel like feeding wet food, now is the time to get the desire out of your system. As soon as the adult teeth start to come in, end all wet food feeding. This includes anything that is not hard kibble. If you don't stop, by age 9 your dog's teeth will be well rotted and you'll have expensive dental visits to remove most of your dog's teeth. You've been warned! Even with dry food, start brushing puppy's teeth. If you get puppy used to it now, it'll be easier for you to brush them as an adult. Without brushing, a decent plaque buildup will be visible by age 1.5. I recommend annual teeth cleaning starting at age 2 to 3, depending on how good you are at brushing your dog's teeth(again, it'll be easier if you start young). Sedation cleaning is the only proper way to clean a dog's teeth; non-sedation methods are not a substitute for annual cleaning.
Note: If you choose to feed a raw/fresh food diet, including the bone will help clean teeth. Talk to your vet and work out a feeding plan that meets daily dietary requirements. Do not attempt to do this on your own or by following a guide you found online.
-Puppy needs to be shown where to go potty all the time. I suggest an 8 week old puppy is shown every 15 minutes if you want to get this training done very early and very fast. Depending on how dedicated you are to learning the signals a puppy gives that it is about to go, if you wait 1 hour between outings, you will have a much harder time, especially with accidents leaving residual odors indoors which encourage going in that area again. If puppy woke up, puppy has to go. If puppy drank, puppy has to go now AND in an hour from now. If puppy ate, puppy has to go potty now AND in an hour or two. If puppy just played, puppy has to go. Potty training should go slow and steady. Puppies were introduced to pads but not all of the puppies understand as fast as others. I do not recommend potty pads indoors. Place the pad just outside the door instead, such as under the roof line or on the porch. Gradually move it closer to the potty location. For fastest results, go out with the puppy, don't stay at the door, which encourages a puppy to come back to you rather than stay out and do its "business". Pads left in the crate will just be shredded to bits. Pad holders make it even more fun with something to tug back. Washable pads are great but are not good to leave in the crate. If you have to leave for more than 2 hours, do leave a disposable pad in the crate to absorb any accidents. Costco has excellently priced pads. I'm happy to pick up some if you mention wanting some. I typically provide a couple pads to hold the new owner over for the car ride home or inevitable puppy shopping spree.
-Socialize the puppy. Socialize does not mean what most think. Socialize means take the puppy everywhere, introduce it to everyone and everything, including new places, surfaces to walk on, sounds, strange objects, things that move, people of all ages and appearances, and animals. This should not stop until the puppy is 3 years old. By the time puppy left the breeder, it had already met 100 people, but it still needs more. It's very difficult to balance safety and needing to expose the puppy while young. A puppy gains confidence and learns appropriate behavior while on its own feet, not while being held. While a cocker stays small much longer, it really should stay on the ground and not be picked up by the owners while being exposed or meeting people. A dog held begins to guard and protect the holder, which leads to behavioral issues
Head to Lowes and other dog friendly stores. Let everyone pet and molest the puppy if they have sanitized hands and have not been petting other dogs. Keep puppy off on the floor until 16 weeks old (or fully vaccinated) or place it on a towel. Enroll in a puppy class. Petsmart has a puppy pack which includes a free class. Your local kennel club or training club also offers a puppy class with likely a much smaller class size. There are many dog training and dog day care businesses and they are a great alternative if you don't have the time to train or socialize
-Start good habits now. Decide on the house rules. Stick to them. If you let things go now as a puppy, it'll be harder to undo as an adult.
-Keep it positive. Always give praise or attention when puppy does well. Negative attention is still attention in the eyes of puppy, so screaming in anger and spanking only serves to reinforce a behavior. Say a firm "No", correct the behavior by redirecting focus to a desired behavior. Puppy can't bark if it is holding a toy in the mouth. Puppy can't chew on the table legs if has a toy in the mouth.
(These are my opinions. Taking your puppy in public is done at your own risk and should be discussed with your veterinarian.)
Training 101
It is a 6 month to year long commitment to potty training and an 18 month to 3 year commitment to obedience training and socialization. If you view training as something to can squeeze into a holiday, vacation, or time between a job, school, medical absence, etc., you will be very unhappy with the results: an untrained, ill mannered adult dog. My job is to prepare you for reality, even if that reality means you decide to hire a trainer.
The alpha wolf pack leader theory was disproved by its creator(His theory was based on a group of unrelated captivated wolves forced to live in close proximity, however, in nature, a group of wolves consists of family members: a breeding pair and the offspring of the last 1-3 years, occasionally a few families will come together to form a larger group for a limited duration. In other words, his study was invalid for understanding wolf behavior.), unfortunately the original information was wide spread and the disproved information was not wide spread, so this way of thinking is highly perpetuated.
In my opinion, Cesar Milan is highly entertaining, but he follows this alpha theory and his advice is not suitable for the gentle tempered cocker spaniel breed(nor most dogs). I strongly suggest not watching any of his shows, as it will end up making you think of dog training in alpha terms without realizing it. The only thing I have appreciated and advocate that he has taught for specific situations is: No touch, no talk, no eye contact. All of these things are rewards or distractions depending on the timing.
To be clear:
Never expect training to be fast. Go turtle slow, not just slow.
Do expect a puppy to go through not one but two teenage rebellion stages in which the training will be seemingly forgotten and need to be repeated.
Do watch training videos by Dr. Sophia Yin on YouTube or her website. (But not her Treat&Train product promoting videos.)
Everyone thinks they know how to train a dog, but they really don't! Don't ask or accept training or behavior advice from dog day cares, pet sitters, pet store employees(including the training instructors), strangers, friends, family, vet techs, veterinarians, or anyone else unless the person is certified(not in training to be certified) specifically as Professional Dog Trainer or Behavior Consultant and has one of the following certificate designations: CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA and practices the LIMA approach. To learn about and find certified professionals: go to http://www.ccpdt.org/
To clarify, your vet/vet tech knows physical issues, not behavioral issues unless they studied behavior and earned degrees/legitimate certifications. You pay a vet to figure out health issues. Pay a certified behaviorist for behavior issues. You tell your vet behavioral issues because the dog may have a physical issue causing the behavioral issue. The vet rules out the physical issues. Then you hire the behaviorist. Excessive chewing, anxiety, irritability, biting, and pottying indoors are just a few common examples things that might have an underlying physical issue that should be ruled out as the cause.
Do give all commands in a brief one or two word format using a clear and firm voice. Don't use baby talk, high pitched voices or sentences for commands. Example: "Sit!" vs. "Now you sit there and be a good dog and I'll give you a treat, yes I will, you're such a good dog!"
The alpha wolf pack leader theory was disproved by its creator(His theory was based on a group of unrelated captivated wolves forced to live in close proximity, however, in nature, a group of wolves consists of family members: a breeding pair and the offspring of the last 1-3 years, occasionally a few families will come together to form a larger group for a limited duration. In other words, his study was invalid for understanding wolf behavior.), unfortunately the original information was wide spread and the disproved information was not wide spread, so this way of thinking is highly perpetuated.
In my opinion, Cesar Milan is highly entertaining, but he follows this alpha theory and his advice is not suitable for the gentle tempered cocker spaniel breed(nor most dogs). I strongly suggest not watching any of his shows, as it will end up making you think of dog training in alpha terms without realizing it. The only thing I have appreciated and advocate that he has taught for specific situations is: No touch, no talk, no eye contact. All of these things are rewards or distractions depending on the timing.
To be clear:
- A dog does not need to be bossed, bullied, threatened, stared down, grabbed by the neck, rolled on to its back, beaten, yelled at, hung, etc.
- A dog does not need a leader. ("Leader" as in the most commonly used sense of "boss"; however, the dog does need a confident instructor.)
- A dog needs to be treated kindly and with respect at all times.
- A dog needs to be able to trust you at all times.
- A cocker spaniel's temperament is likely to be severely negatively altered using any forceful techniques, resulting in costly professional training to undo and possibly never undone
- If you or a family member is prone to force, short tempered, or is unwilling to give up the alpha way of thinking, my puppies are not recommended. Please get either another breed that will be effected less or use a breeder that has a line of cocker spaniels with less sensitive temperament. If I specifically go over this point with you, it is because observation or puppy aptitude testing has shown me that this puppy is either more sensitive or more prone to using teeth and I want to confirm you will be a good home match, committed to gentle training techniques.
Never expect training to be fast. Go turtle slow, not just slow.
Do expect a puppy to go through not one but two teenage rebellion stages in which the training will be seemingly forgotten and need to be repeated.
Do watch training videos by Dr. Sophia Yin on YouTube or her website. (But not her Treat&Train product promoting videos.)
Everyone thinks they know how to train a dog, but they really don't! Don't ask or accept training or behavior advice from dog day cares, pet sitters, pet store employees(including the training instructors), strangers, friends, family, vet techs, veterinarians, or anyone else unless the person is certified(not in training to be certified) specifically as Professional Dog Trainer or Behavior Consultant and has one of the following certificate designations: CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA and practices the LIMA approach. To learn about and find certified professionals: go to http://www.ccpdt.org/
To clarify, your vet/vet tech knows physical issues, not behavioral issues unless they studied behavior and earned degrees/legitimate certifications. You pay a vet to figure out health issues. Pay a certified behaviorist for behavior issues. You tell your vet behavioral issues because the dog may have a physical issue causing the behavioral issue. The vet rules out the physical issues. Then you hire the behaviorist. Excessive chewing, anxiety, irritability, biting, and pottying indoors are just a few common examples things that might have an underlying physical issue that should be ruled out as the cause.
Do give all commands in a brief one or two word format using a clear and firm voice. Don't use baby talk, high pitched voices or sentences for commands. Example: "Sit!" vs. "Now you sit there and be a good dog and I'll give you a treat, yes I will, you're such a good dog!"
Grooming 101
Your puppy must be trained to
Check your thinking! Don't groom while mad-- you will not be as gentle. Don't groom if you are in a time crunch or impatient- you will not be as gentle or as careful. Grooming should be relaxing and pain free for both you and the dog.
Go slow. Be gentle. Keep it short. Take breaks(for you and puppy).
Routine grooming gives you an awareness of what is normal and what is new in your dog's skin, coat, and body.
Coat:
As a double coated breed, the cocker spaniel has 2 coat types.
It is a myth that shaving cools a dog. In reality, shaving takes away to ability to circulate air and reflect the sun, making the dog's skin much hotter and at high risk of sun-exposure caused skin cancer. In order to circulate air to allow cooling, the double coat needs to be natural(not cut to any length) or the undercoat can be removed(artificially creating a single coat) and then clipped(if you must).
Note: The feathering is part of a cocker spaniels beauty. If you plan on getting a cocker just to shave it down, ask yourself why you are getting a cocker. Get a beagle instead and save yourself a lot of grooming. If you must get a cocker, get a field coat cocker (but not "field bred" as that's going to be very high energy for hunting all day and likely too much for a typical pet owner) whose parents and grandparents all have minimal feathering, and then do not shave it(just scissor cut off the tiny amount of feathering). If you have 2 field coat parents, your odds of a field coat puppy is high, but short coat hides in the genetics of long coat and you could still end up with more coat. Avoid parents that both have champion lines.
If you hire a groomer, ask around for a groomer that will hand strip out the undercoat only. Not all pet groomers know how or offer this.
If you want to learn how to groom your dog to have a polished look but not be shaved, you will need to learn a technique called "hand stripping"(which is different but often confused from a technique called "carding") and optionally purchase a stripping knife(Mars Coat King) or pumice. I prefer to use a metal flea comb or bare fingers, depending on how easy the coat comes out and if you're willing to wait for a coat to be ready to strip. The hand stripping technique involves manually removing the undercoat(no, they've not invented a mechanical device yet!).
Pull back towards you at the elbow(not the wrist). Pull staying close to the skin, do not lift up as you pull(this changes the angle of the coat and we want it to lay flat).
Tip: Repeatedly comb the coat in a part down the back at a 90 degree angle from coat growth(straight down the sides of the dog instead of towards the rear). Doing this makes it easier to catch hairs in the flea comb, stripping knife, and pumice. Hand stripping is easily done absentmindedly while listening to the television.
Note: Puppy's coat is changing from "puppy coat" to adult coat. The "puppy coat" can only be removed when it is ready to come out. Excessive force or pain is not normal and should not be done. Wait until the coat is ready(you will see it shed in the flea comb and in some cases the undercoat fur will start to grow long, making the puppy's back look unkempt). The first time you hand strip an adult moderate-heavy feathered coat, it will take 6-8 hours of labor to finish the job and is best done over the course of a few weeks. (A puppy, being smaller, will obviously take less time.) The results will last longer than clippering and subsequent stripping sessions will be short if you keep up on it.
Note: The coat amount and location is based on genetics. Pedigrees with mostly show lines will have heavy show feathering. Pedigrees with a mix of show and field lines will have anywhere from light feathering to heavy feathering. Pedigrees with only field lines will have minimal to light feathering. Heavily feathered cockers will need the backs stripped with more effort while moderate and lighter feathered cockers will need little stripping and just lay flat naturally. Once stripped, there is no reason to shave. A glossy (often darker) coat on the back with minimal fuzzies coming out is an "easy care" field type coat and there is no reason to shave - ever! My current dogs carry for moderately-light to moderately-heavy feathering. The benefit of this compared to heavy show line coats is the face needs minimal clippering, so time between grooms can be delayed(recommend regular intervals while a puppy, then delaying when around 2 years old or when grooming manners are well established) or skipped entirely and, should you groom yourself, the grooming time is reduced. If a lighter coat is desired(ideal for first time long coated breed dog owners), ask about getting an older puppy. It is impossible to predict adult coat in an 8 week old puppy given the current coat pedigree, however you are welcome to inquire about my best guess--then tell me if I turned out to be right or wrong!
Note: After spay, you may find hand stripping more difficult. If you get frustrated, use a stripping knife.
Puppy is already used to the feel of the flea comb pretending to be stripping the puppy's back and, depending on coat readiness and age, some or all stripping has already been done.
Daily Combing:
Note the word is "comb", not brush. Brush out the coat with any pin brush, then comb the coat with a wide toothed comb. "Brushing is beneficial. Combing is critical"
Mats:
As your 8-11 month old puppy really starts shedding out puppy coat, the result is mats. Crazy mats. If your goal is to have coat of any length or avoid shaving the puppy down, use a conditioning spray to de-mat before a bath, bathe puppy every 3-4 days, comb out the dead coat as often as possible(twice daily), especially before and after exercise as movement and debris from playing makes it worse. Most importantly, start combing regularly as soon as you take your puppy home because by 6 months puppy will be a matted mess.
The slicker brush is for mats, not general brushing. Using the slicker brush, start at the bottom(fur ends) of the mat, brush with short strokes. Once the end is brushed out and tangle free, move upward slightly. Repeat the process, moving up a little at a time. Small clean mats(such as under the arm pits) don't usually need to be wet. For larger, dirty, or difficult mats, soak the mat to remove sticky debris but avoid rubbing it to create tighter mats. Slicker brush while wet and keep it damp until done removing the mat. As an adult, if you keep getting mats in the same spots or have a lot of mats, your dog is probably dirty enough to need a full bath and you should bathe the dog more often.
Never cut or rip out a mat. Cutting/ripping makes the coat different lengths. Different lengths mean more mats, followed by more cutting. It's a vicious but entirely avoidable cycle. If you absolutely "must" cut a mat--and I'll argue up and down that a "must" scenario is entirely avoidable and you've done something wrong or failed to do something right-- make ONE cut in the direction of the coat away from the body(not across the mat/along the skin) in order to break up the mat. Carefully stick a BLUNT NOSED scissor point at the top of the mat near the skin and cut away from the body(not from the bottom of the mat aiming in to the body) to avoid accidentally cutting the skin. Resume slicker brush use. Repeat, ONE cut at a time. 2-3 cuts is usually enough to work out a large tricky mat.
Ears:
Keep the inner ear, rear ear area where the ear meets the head, and the neck area opposite the ear shaved or cut short. This allows for air to get between the ear and the neck, preventing or controlling ear(most often yeast) infections.
Yeast infections smell like Cheetos/sweet cheese, if it is allowed to progress, a waxy light brown discharge is visible, then it turns dark brown and gets drier in appearance, but if you look in the canal you will see the waxiness. At any stage, the skin goes from pale gray-pink to pink to bright pink to red to angry red. Swelling from inflammation can progress to completely close the ear canal, trapping the moisture internally and creating a haven for yeast to grow. Surgery may be required to reopen the canal or permanently close it. Scratching causes some of the inflammation and builds up scar tissue over time, narrowing the ear canal. Without looking in the ear, signs of ear issues are rolling around, rubbing the head or ear along the ground, couches or other surfaces and/or scratching.
Prevent ear infections by placing a cotton ball in the ear before bathing, completely drying the ear, behind the ear, and the neck opposite the ear as a minimum/time crunch drying method, and rinsing the ear with 1 part 70% rubbing alcohol to 1 part vinegar(also can be purchased as the product "Swim Ear" in any pharmacy but the home-made version will be far cheaper. ) Adding a small amount of Boric acid(only if no scratches are present) and Povidone-Iodine (Betadine solution) may further assist. Different ears will require different levels of care. Some dogs need daily anti-fungal (miconazole) liquid drops from a veterinarian as a preventative/control method for chronic infections while other dogs only need a rinse after a bath to prevent occasional infections. Note: the addition of anything into the ear should only be done if a veterinarian has first confirmed the eardrum is intact. I recommend asking for a few extra bottles of miconazole liquid or a standing prescription to pick up more as needed for dogs with chronic ear issues. As a cocker owner, you should learn the smell and appearance of yeast ear infections, that way when an infection is present that is not yeast smelling or looks different, you do immediately run to the vet for a cytology or examination for a ruptured ear drum. An infection following swimming or outdoor water exposure near the ears is cause for a cytology to confirm it is yeast or/and something else. Bacteria, perforated ear drums, and mites also cause ear infections or symptoms that look like ear infections. Mites are usually controlled by Rx external parasite preventative. Disclaimer: These are my own comments and not a substitute for veterinarian care. Always seek veterinarian care and follow your vet's instructions. Different vets are more skilled at caring for spaniel ear problems, so don't be afraid to change vets.
Never stick a Q-tip in the dog's ear. This pushes debris deeper into the ear canal. Use a cotton ball or cotton pad only
Note: If ear care is too much for you, get a miniature schnauzer instead.
Nails:
"If you can hear the nail(s) while walking on a hard surface, it is PAST time to trim your dog's nails." A puppy's nails grow very fast and should be trimmed every 2 weeks, For more frequently the nails are trimmed, the shorter the nail quick will become. The less frequent, the longer. The length of the nail quick determines the length of the nail. A dog walks on the human equivalent of finger tips. A longer nail means the dog has to flatten out the finger or twisting the joints out of position, joint issues in the entire body, reduced activity, possible weight gain, behavioral issues, and pain.
The nail has no pain receptors, but the nail quick does(and bleeds a lot). In dark nailed dogs, you cannot see the quick. Cut off tiny amounts at a time using dog nail cutters($5-$10) or use a dog nail dremel. Most owners find trimming nails too scary or difficult. It is difficult to keep the dog still and the odds of cutting the quick from squirming is high and on dark nails it is very high. You may also want to buy a blood clotting agent like Kwik-Stop Styptic Powder. It is better if a stranger cuts the nails so the dog doesn't start to fear the owner. A dog nail dremel is suggested over clippers as this gets closer to quick without cutting the quick. A veterinarian or groomer can cut or dremel the nails, usually for $5-$20.
Your puppy has already had a few nail trims, however, in most cases, they hated it. Having toes messed with is not natural to a puppy and your puppies' toes have been touched regularly to help desensitize them. What the breeder started, you need to maintain. Continue to feel your puppies toes, hold the nails, teach the puppy to lay on its side, and trim the nails every 2 weeks, even if all you do is take a tiny amount off or pretend.
Check where the nail meets the skin. Keep this area cleaned and dry. A build up stays damp. Check for redness, swelling, and discharge.
Check between the toe pads. Keep coat here cut short or preferably shaved out, especially if your cocker has dense coat.
Report unusual nails to your vet, such as flaking, breaking, thin, or the dog is chewing on nails.
Teeth/Mouth:
Ask your vet how to properly clean the teeth at home. The vet can demonstrate this during an office visit. Even if you already know what to do, ask for the demo again in case something was missed the first time you learned.
This is generic information for starting out your puppy and adult routine(not a substitute for asking the vet):
It is especially important to inspect the gums and teeth of a puppy regularly until the last adult teeth come in. Sometimes issues pop up. You are looking for the abnormal(to know abnormal you must first be aware of normal), such as swelling, a baby tooth that never comes out, an adult tooth that doesn't erupt, and gum redness. Make an appointment if you find something. Puppy teeth fall out between 4-6 months old and are replaced by adult teeth.
The puppy will learn in time to not mind you in their mouth and holding their jaw open. Practice, practice, practice. Your puppy should become pretty comfortable with you doing this and offer minimal resistance. Some resistance is expected(you are after all in their mouth), but the puppy should understand nothing bad is happening and you aren't giving up until you are ready(not when the puppy is ready)
Place one finger in the very back of the mouth, behind the last teeth in the gummy area. There is a "something is stuck back there" response and the puppy should open its mouth. You may need to reach farther and lightly tickle the back of the mouth in stubborn puppies. (Be careful your finger doesn't slip forward into the teeth areas, you can use an unsharpened pencil, etc if you are worried, but, at a young age, puppy is mostly going to mouth your finger.) This trick is also helpful if puppy grabs something and won't drop it.
With the jaw now open, it's easy to hold it open with your hand. Your small cocker spaniel puppy's strength is less than your hand at this point, but not for long, which is why you start now. Take care not to apply too much force-- you are only holding it from closing, not prying the jaw open. A puppy is delicate, start over with the finger in the pack of the mouth.
Inspect the chin. Smell it.
Pimple like bumps are not uncommon particularly in puppies(and they smell really bad if oozing). Sometimes you can see them, sometimes they are only felt as bumps under the skin. (Just make sure they heal and don't get worse. To prevent them, switch to stainless steel bowls, never plastic(harbors bacterial). Clean the bowls regularly.) Some dogs have more loose skin than others.
Check any skin folds(neck, chin, jowls) for infections(yeast is a cheesy smell), bare skin where coat should be, redness, oozing surface wound. You have to pull the skin tight enough to see down into the folds. If your dog is rubbing its chin, wants its chin end scratched, or scratches its chin, there might be an infection. Antibiotic ointment twice a day is a quick fix for minor oozing wounds and that might be enough to avoid the vet if it heals in 3 days, but prevention(thorough drying, anti-fungal from the vet, and, in some cases to allow healing, an e-collar) is what is needed.
Gently lift and hold open the lips. Smell the breath. It shouldn't have much of a smell beyond a recent meal. A bad smelling mouth is probably from a bigger issue. If you ever feel the need to get dog breath fresheners, see the vet first!
Inspect the dog's gums. It should be pink not bright or red. Look for changes, swelling.
Inspect the teeth. Look for tooth damage(don't let your dog chew rocks, peach pits, etc), and build up.
Hold open the jaw to view the biting surfaces, insides of the teeth, inside of the mouth, and tongue(surface and underside).
Using any tooth brush and dog safe tooth paste, brush the dogs teeth. Brush in a gentle circular motion and brush both the teeth surface and along the gum line.
Rarely does a dog get cavities, the primary concern is the gum line. If you feed wet or fresh food without bones afterwards, the dog is a mouth breather at night, or you feed starchy carbs/sugars, you might have a plaque issue if you aren't brushing regularly. You can remove the calcified plaque between annual teeth cleanings at home or by non-sedation teeth cleanings, but again the primary concern is what you can't see under the gum line, so an x-ray is still needed.
Your vet during an annual visit will look at the teeth and gums and be able to tell you more.
Report anything unusual to your vet
- lay on both sides
- lay on its back
- stand still
- accept touching, scissoring, and clippering everywhere, particularly including the face, neck, underside of the ears and paws
- have patience
- not mouth or bite the groomer
Check your thinking! Don't groom while mad-- you will not be as gentle. Don't groom if you are in a time crunch or impatient- you will not be as gentle or as careful. Grooming should be relaxing and pain free for both you and the dog.
Go slow. Be gentle. Keep it short. Take breaks(for you and puppy).
Routine grooming gives you an awareness of what is normal and what is new in your dog's skin, coat, and body.
Coat:
As a double coated breed, the cocker spaniel has 2 coat types.
- The inner coat or "under coat" acts is insulation(both from heat and cold). The under coat is all over the dog, but undercoat is also the long feathering on a cocker spaniel. The undercoat tends to thicken and/or increase in quantity after being spayed.
- The outer coat or "guard hairs" acts as a protective shield(both from sun and rain). It stays shorter.
It is a myth that shaving cools a dog. In reality, shaving takes away to ability to circulate air and reflect the sun, making the dog's skin much hotter and at high risk of sun-exposure caused skin cancer. In order to circulate air to allow cooling, the double coat needs to be natural(not cut to any length) or the undercoat can be removed(artificially creating a single coat) and then clipped(if you must).
Note: The feathering is part of a cocker spaniels beauty. If you plan on getting a cocker just to shave it down, ask yourself why you are getting a cocker. Get a beagle instead and save yourself a lot of grooming. If you must get a cocker, get a field coat cocker (but not "field bred" as that's going to be very high energy for hunting all day and likely too much for a typical pet owner) whose parents and grandparents all have minimal feathering, and then do not shave it(just scissor cut off the tiny amount of feathering). If you have 2 field coat parents, your odds of a field coat puppy is high, but short coat hides in the genetics of long coat and you could still end up with more coat. Avoid parents that both have champion lines.
If you hire a groomer, ask around for a groomer that will hand strip out the undercoat only. Not all pet groomers know how or offer this.
If you want to learn how to groom your dog to have a polished look but not be shaved, you will need to learn a technique called "hand stripping"(which is different but often confused from a technique called "carding") and optionally purchase a stripping knife(Mars Coat King) or pumice. I prefer to use a metal flea comb or bare fingers, depending on how easy the coat comes out and if you're willing to wait for a coat to be ready to strip. The hand stripping technique involves manually removing the undercoat(no, they've not invented a mechanical device yet!).
- The dog should not be freshly bathed. Right before a bath is better. Dirt on the coat makes it easier to grip the coat. If your dog is clean, buy grooming chalk powder or use gloves.
- This can only be done by actual hand when the undercoat is longer than the outer coat, so it does require patience in looking at a fuzzy, fluffy, furry back for a few months. In short, you pluck out the undercoat like you would de-feather a chicken, grabbing it with your thumb and index finger and pulling quickly in the direction of the coat growth. The fur is dead and has no sensation, so this is not painful when done correctly, although the first few times the dog will wonder what you are doing and turn around to look. It is helpful to hold the scruff at the neck so you are not pulling the skin(only the fur). If you don't want to wait for the fuzzies to grow out, use the alternative methods described next.
- A flea comb can(should) be used daily as part of the regular grooming routine to avoid mats. Place a thumb on the base of the comb's needles. Pull the comb in the direction of the coat(towards the tail/rear). Again, hold the scruff skin securely. Be careful that the flea comb is at a 45 degree angle and the needles to not scrape the skin(as mentioned, dog skin is much thinner than human skin). Rake the comb repeatedly along the entire back. The speed is dependent on how much undercoat is present and how frequently you remove the collected coat in the needles. Some coat in the needles is very helpful to catch more coat, making the job much faster. A comb too full with coat can cause more tugging effort required, which is helpful in coats with lots of undercoat to remove, but the extra abrasive resistance caused by the compacted removed coat is not needed on a dog whose undercoat is naturally less dense. Short quick pulls may work better than long dragging pulls. Practice and see what gets the best results(removes the most coat) for you. Unlike a stripping knife or pumice, you can focus on a smaller area before moving on to a new area without worry of leaving a bald spot.
- The stripping knife is used similarly as the flea comb, but with short strokes, being careful not to linger in any one area to avoid bald spots. The dog may be clean for this method.
- A pumice is ideal for more difficult areas, such as the neck and curves of the shoulders and rear. Rub the stone in short strokes, being careful not to linger. This will break/cut the outer coat shorter.
Pull back towards you at the elbow(not the wrist). Pull staying close to the skin, do not lift up as you pull(this changes the angle of the coat and we want it to lay flat).
Tip: Repeatedly comb the coat in a part down the back at a 90 degree angle from coat growth(straight down the sides of the dog instead of towards the rear). Doing this makes it easier to catch hairs in the flea comb, stripping knife, and pumice. Hand stripping is easily done absentmindedly while listening to the television.
Note: Puppy's coat is changing from "puppy coat" to adult coat. The "puppy coat" can only be removed when it is ready to come out. Excessive force or pain is not normal and should not be done. Wait until the coat is ready(you will see it shed in the flea comb and in some cases the undercoat fur will start to grow long, making the puppy's back look unkempt). The first time you hand strip an adult moderate-heavy feathered coat, it will take 6-8 hours of labor to finish the job and is best done over the course of a few weeks. (A puppy, being smaller, will obviously take less time.) The results will last longer than clippering and subsequent stripping sessions will be short if you keep up on it.
Note: The coat amount and location is based on genetics. Pedigrees with mostly show lines will have heavy show feathering. Pedigrees with a mix of show and field lines will have anywhere from light feathering to heavy feathering. Pedigrees with only field lines will have minimal to light feathering. Heavily feathered cockers will need the backs stripped with more effort while moderate and lighter feathered cockers will need little stripping and just lay flat naturally. Once stripped, there is no reason to shave. A glossy (often darker) coat on the back with minimal fuzzies coming out is an "easy care" field type coat and there is no reason to shave - ever! My current dogs carry for moderately-light to moderately-heavy feathering. The benefit of this compared to heavy show line coats is the face needs minimal clippering, so time between grooms can be delayed(recommend regular intervals while a puppy, then delaying when around 2 years old or when grooming manners are well established) or skipped entirely and, should you groom yourself, the grooming time is reduced. If a lighter coat is desired(ideal for first time long coated breed dog owners), ask about getting an older puppy. It is impossible to predict adult coat in an 8 week old puppy given the current coat pedigree, however you are welcome to inquire about my best guess--then tell me if I turned out to be right or wrong!
Note: After spay, you may find hand stripping more difficult. If you get frustrated, use a stripping knife.
Puppy is already used to the feel of the flea comb pretending to be stripping the puppy's back and, depending on coat readiness and age, some or all stripping has already been done.
Daily Combing:
Note the word is "comb", not brush. Brush out the coat with any pin brush, then comb the coat with a wide toothed comb. "Brushing is beneficial. Combing is critical"
Mats:
As your 8-11 month old puppy really starts shedding out puppy coat, the result is mats. Crazy mats. If your goal is to have coat of any length or avoid shaving the puppy down, use a conditioning spray to de-mat before a bath, bathe puppy every 3-4 days, comb out the dead coat as often as possible(twice daily), especially before and after exercise as movement and debris from playing makes it worse. Most importantly, start combing regularly as soon as you take your puppy home because by 6 months puppy will be a matted mess.
The slicker brush is for mats, not general brushing. Using the slicker brush, start at the bottom(fur ends) of the mat, brush with short strokes. Once the end is brushed out and tangle free, move upward slightly. Repeat the process, moving up a little at a time. Small clean mats(such as under the arm pits) don't usually need to be wet. For larger, dirty, or difficult mats, soak the mat to remove sticky debris but avoid rubbing it to create tighter mats. Slicker brush while wet and keep it damp until done removing the mat. As an adult, if you keep getting mats in the same spots or have a lot of mats, your dog is probably dirty enough to need a full bath and you should bathe the dog more often.
Never cut or rip out a mat. Cutting/ripping makes the coat different lengths. Different lengths mean more mats, followed by more cutting. It's a vicious but entirely avoidable cycle. If you absolutely "must" cut a mat--and I'll argue up and down that a "must" scenario is entirely avoidable and you've done something wrong or failed to do something right-- make ONE cut in the direction of the coat away from the body(not across the mat/along the skin) in order to break up the mat. Carefully stick a BLUNT NOSED scissor point at the top of the mat near the skin and cut away from the body(not from the bottom of the mat aiming in to the body) to avoid accidentally cutting the skin. Resume slicker brush use. Repeat, ONE cut at a time. 2-3 cuts is usually enough to work out a large tricky mat.
Ears:
Keep the inner ear, rear ear area where the ear meets the head, and the neck area opposite the ear shaved or cut short. This allows for air to get between the ear and the neck, preventing or controlling ear(most often yeast) infections.
Yeast infections smell like Cheetos/sweet cheese, if it is allowed to progress, a waxy light brown discharge is visible, then it turns dark brown and gets drier in appearance, but if you look in the canal you will see the waxiness. At any stage, the skin goes from pale gray-pink to pink to bright pink to red to angry red. Swelling from inflammation can progress to completely close the ear canal, trapping the moisture internally and creating a haven for yeast to grow. Surgery may be required to reopen the canal or permanently close it. Scratching causes some of the inflammation and builds up scar tissue over time, narrowing the ear canal. Without looking in the ear, signs of ear issues are rolling around, rubbing the head or ear along the ground, couches or other surfaces and/or scratching.
Prevent ear infections by placing a cotton ball in the ear before bathing, completely drying the ear, behind the ear, and the neck opposite the ear as a minimum/time crunch drying method, and rinsing the ear with 1 part 70% rubbing alcohol to 1 part vinegar(also can be purchased as the product "Swim Ear" in any pharmacy but the home-made version will be far cheaper. ) Adding a small amount of Boric acid(only if no scratches are present) and Povidone-Iodine (Betadine solution) may further assist. Different ears will require different levels of care. Some dogs need daily anti-fungal (miconazole) liquid drops from a veterinarian as a preventative/control method for chronic infections while other dogs only need a rinse after a bath to prevent occasional infections. Note: the addition of anything into the ear should only be done if a veterinarian has first confirmed the eardrum is intact. I recommend asking for a few extra bottles of miconazole liquid or a standing prescription to pick up more as needed for dogs with chronic ear issues. As a cocker owner, you should learn the smell and appearance of yeast ear infections, that way when an infection is present that is not yeast smelling or looks different, you do immediately run to the vet for a cytology or examination for a ruptured ear drum. An infection following swimming or outdoor water exposure near the ears is cause for a cytology to confirm it is yeast or/and something else. Bacteria, perforated ear drums, and mites also cause ear infections or symptoms that look like ear infections. Mites are usually controlled by Rx external parasite preventative. Disclaimer: These are my own comments and not a substitute for veterinarian care. Always seek veterinarian care and follow your vet's instructions. Different vets are more skilled at caring for spaniel ear problems, so don't be afraid to change vets.
Never stick a Q-tip in the dog's ear. This pushes debris deeper into the ear canal. Use a cotton ball or cotton pad only
Note: If ear care is too much for you, get a miniature schnauzer instead.
Nails:
"If you can hear the nail(s) while walking on a hard surface, it is PAST time to trim your dog's nails." A puppy's nails grow very fast and should be trimmed every 2 weeks, For more frequently the nails are trimmed, the shorter the nail quick will become. The less frequent, the longer. The length of the nail quick determines the length of the nail. A dog walks on the human equivalent of finger tips. A longer nail means the dog has to flatten out the finger or twisting the joints out of position, joint issues in the entire body, reduced activity, possible weight gain, behavioral issues, and pain.
The nail has no pain receptors, but the nail quick does(and bleeds a lot). In dark nailed dogs, you cannot see the quick. Cut off tiny amounts at a time using dog nail cutters($5-$10) or use a dog nail dremel. Most owners find trimming nails too scary or difficult. It is difficult to keep the dog still and the odds of cutting the quick from squirming is high and on dark nails it is very high. You may also want to buy a blood clotting agent like Kwik-Stop Styptic Powder. It is better if a stranger cuts the nails so the dog doesn't start to fear the owner. A dog nail dremel is suggested over clippers as this gets closer to quick without cutting the quick. A veterinarian or groomer can cut or dremel the nails, usually for $5-$20.
Your puppy has already had a few nail trims, however, in most cases, they hated it. Having toes messed with is not natural to a puppy and your puppies' toes have been touched regularly to help desensitize them. What the breeder started, you need to maintain. Continue to feel your puppies toes, hold the nails, teach the puppy to lay on its side, and trim the nails every 2 weeks, even if all you do is take a tiny amount off or pretend.
Check where the nail meets the skin. Keep this area cleaned and dry. A build up stays damp. Check for redness, swelling, and discharge.
Check between the toe pads. Keep coat here cut short or preferably shaved out, especially if your cocker has dense coat.
Report unusual nails to your vet, such as flaking, breaking, thin, or the dog is chewing on nails.
Teeth/Mouth:
Ask your vet how to properly clean the teeth at home. The vet can demonstrate this during an office visit. Even if you already know what to do, ask for the demo again in case something was missed the first time you learned.
This is generic information for starting out your puppy and adult routine(not a substitute for asking the vet):
It is especially important to inspect the gums and teeth of a puppy regularly until the last adult teeth come in. Sometimes issues pop up. You are looking for the abnormal(to know abnormal you must first be aware of normal), such as swelling, a baby tooth that never comes out, an adult tooth that doesn't erupt, and gum redness. Make an appointment if you find something. Puppy teeth fall out between 4-6 months old and are replaced by adult teeth.
The puppy will learn in time to not mind you in their mouth and holding their jaw open. Practice, practice, practice. Your puppy should become pretty comfortable with you doing this and offer minimal resistance. Some resistance is expected(you are after all in their mouth), but the puppy should understand nothing bad is happening and you aren't giving up until you are ready(not when the puppy is ready)
Place one finger in the very back of the mouth, behind the last teeth in the gummy area. There is a "something is stuck back there" response and the puppy should open its mouth. You may need to reach farther and lightly tickle the back of the mouth in stubborn puppies. (Be careful your finger doesn't slip forward into the teeth areas, you can use an unsharpened pencil, etc if you are worried, but, at a young age, puppy is mostly going to mouth your finger.) This trick is also helpful if puppy grabs something and won't drop it.
With the jaw now open, it's easy to hold it open with your hand. Your small cocker spaniel puppy's strength is less than your hand at this point, but not for long, which is why you start now. Take care not to apply too much force-- you are only holding it from closing, not prying the jaw open. A puppy is delicate, start over with the finger in the pack of the mouth.
Inspect the chin. Smell it.
Pimple like bumps are not uncommon particularly in puppies(and they smell really bad if oozing). Sometimes you can see them, sometimes they are only felt as bumps under the skin. (Just make sure they heal and don't get worse. To prevent them, switch to stainless steel bowls, never plastic(harbors bacterial). Clean the bowls regularly.) Some dogs have more loose skin than others.
Check any skin folds(neck, chin, jowls) for infections(yeast is a cheesy smell), bare skin where coat should be, redness, oozing surface wound. You have to pull the skin tight enough to see down into the folds. If your dog is rubbing its chin, wants its chin end scratched, or scratches its chin, there might be an infection. Antibiotic ointment twice a day is a quick fix for minor oozing wounds and that might be enough to avoid the vet if it heals in 3 days, but prevention(thorough drying, anti-fungal from the vet, and, in some cases to allow healing, an e-collar) is what is needed.
Gently lift and hold open the lips. Smell the breath. It shouldn't have much of a smell beyond a recent meal. A bad smelling mouth is probably from a bigger issue. If you ever feel the need to get dog breath fresheners, see the vet first!
Inspect the dog's gums. It should be pink not bright or red. Look for changes, swelling.
Inspect the teeth. Look for tooth damage(don't let your dog chew rocks, peach pits, etc), and build up.
Hold open the jaw to view the biting surfaces, insides of the teeth, inside of the mouth, and tongue(surface and underside).
Using any tooth brush and dog safe tooth paste, brush the dogs teeth. Brush in a gentle circular motion and brush both the teeth surface and along the gum line.
Rarely does a dog get cavities, the primary concern is the gum line. If you feed wet or fresh food without bones afterwards, the dog is a mouth breather at night, or you feed starchy carbs/sugars, you might have a plaque issue if you aren't brushing regularly. You can remove the calcified plaque between annual teeth cleanings at home or by non-sedation teeth cleanings, but again the primary concern is what you can't see under the gum line, so an x-ray is still needed.
Your vet during an annual visit will look at the teeth and gums and be able to tell you more.
Report anything unusual to your vet
Planning Ahead
In the first year of life, expect to spend at least $1500 on routine things. This doesn't include emergencies so having $3000 saved up on top of purchase price is recommended. Get full coverage pet insurance. Trupanion is company that offers pet insurance. Ask if your vehicle/house insurance offers pet insurance. Compare rates and coverage.
If you've not had a young puppy in a while or this is your first young puppy, read about the vaccinations and initial veterinary care needed.
If you've not had a young puppy in a while or this is your first young puppy, read about the vaccinations and initial veterinary care needed.